{"id":2589,"date":"2021-08-03T19:43:00","date_gmt":"2021-08-03T17:43:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sykorkanacestach.cz\/?p=2589"},"modified":"2022-11-03T17:39:28","modified_gmt":"2022-11-03T16:39:28","slug":"laugavegur-a-fimmvorduhals-1-den","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sykorkanacestach.cz\/?p=2589","title":{"rendered":"Laugavegur a Fimmv\u00f6r\u00f0uh\u00e1ls 1. den"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Bud\u00edk zvon\u00ed u\u017e v 5 r\u00e1no. Vst\u00e1vat se mi nechce, ale mus\u00edm, v 6:30 n\u00e1m odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed autobus. V\u0161echno zabal\u00edme, v kuchy\u0148ce si uva\u0159\u00edm \u010daj a posn\u00edd\u00e1m m\u016fj milovan\u00fd Isey skyr a muffin. V 6:20 u\u017e sed\u00edme v buse sm\u011br Sk\u00f3gar. Do kempu ve Sk\u00f3garu doraz\u00edme 9:30 s t\u00edm, \u017ee jsme m\u011bli je\u0161t\u011b 30 min pauzu na ob\u010derstven\u00ed u benz\u00ednky v m\u011bste\u010dku Hella. V rychlosti p\u0159ebal\u00edme batohy, dopln\u00edme vodu, ud\u011bl\u00e1me selfie se Sk\u00f3gafossem a vyraz\u00edme na prvn\u00ed trek, kter\u00fd se jmenuje Fimmv\u00f6r\u00f0uh\u00e1ls. Je to jeden z nejpopul\u00e1rn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch islandsk\u00fdch turistick\u00fdch cest spojuj\u00edc\u00ed Sk\u00f3gar a \u00de\u00f3rsm\u00f6rk. N\u00e1zev Fimmv\u00f6r\u00f0uh\u00e1ls lze do \u010de\u0161tiny p\u0159elo\u017eit jako Pr\u016fsmyk p\u011bti kamenn\u00fdch mu\u017e\u00edk\u016f nebo Pr\u016fsmyk p\u011bti mohyl a ozna\u010duje pr\u016fsmyk mezi ledovci M\u00fdrdalsj\u00f6kull a Eyjafjallaj\u00f6kull, kter\u00fd je v nadmo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ce 1100 m.n.m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u010cek\u00e1 n\u00e1s dneska po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9 stoup\u00e1n\u00ed. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1me na \u00farovni mo\u0159e a pot\u0159ebujeme doj\u00edt a\u017e k prvn\u00ed chat\u011b na trase, kter\u00e1 je t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 v 1000 m.n.m. Pod\u00e9l 60 metrov\u00e9ho vodop\u00e1du Sk\u00f3gafoss vedou schody a p\u0159i v\u00fd\u0161lapu se po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b zah\u0159eji. Po\u010das\u00ed je vskutku islandsk\u00e9. Je pod mrakem, ale zat\u00edm nepr\u0161\u00ed. Stoup\u00e1me pod\u00e9l \u0159eky Sk\u00f3ga na n\u00ed\u017e jsou ka\u017edou chv\u00edli n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 vodop\u00e1dy a ka\u0148ony. Cesta d\u00e1l stoup\u00e1 jen m\u00edrn\u011b, ale zato vytrvale. Mus\u00edm \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee je to fakt vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed. Po\u010das\u00ed se za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 m\u011bnit a ob\u010das trochu sprchne, ale zat\u00edm nic hrozn\u00e9ho. V m\u00edst\u011b, kde stezka kles\u00e1 na \u00farove\u0148 \u0159eky, nab\u00edr\u00e1me vodu. Je to posledn\u00ed mo\u017enost nabrat vodu. A\u017e do \u00de\u00f3rsm\u00f6rku nen\u00ed nikde mo\u017en\u00e9 vodu doplnit. Bereme a filtrujeme tedy celkem 7 l a to u\u017e je na v\u00e1ze batohu opravdu hodn\u011b zn\u00e1t.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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D\u00e1le stoup\u00e1me a je to pro m\u011b \u010d\u00edm d\u00e1l t\u00edm v\u00edc n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Po 8 km doch\u00e1z\u00edme k mostu, po kter\u00e9m p\u0159ekra\u010dujeme \u0159eku Sk\u00f3ga. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 padat mlha a mrholit. Vid\u011bt je jen na p\u00e1r metr\u016f p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi. Zastavujeme na sva\u010dinu, proto\u017ee u\u017e m\u00e1m fakt hlad. Schov\u00e1me se p\u0159ed v\u011btrem za kameny, ale moc to stejn\u011b nefunguje. B\u011bhem pauzy \u010dlov\u011bk rychle vymrzne. Proto se p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 nezdr\u017eujeme a pokra\u010dujeme d\u00e1l. Tyhle 4 km mi p\u0159ijdou \u00fapln\u011b nekone\u010dn\u00e9. Kone\u010dn\u011b se z mlhy vyno\u0159uje obrys chaty (shelteru) Baldvinssk\u00e1li. Venku je skute\u010dn\u011b nep\u011bkn\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed, mlha a d\u00e9\u0161\u0165, jsme zmrzl\u00ed a mok\u0159\u00ed, tak\u017ee se s Davidem shodneme, \u017ee si dne\u0161n\u00ed noc zaplat\u00edme na chat\u011b, kdy\u017e to p\u016fjde. Pokud toti\u017e chcete p\u0159espat na chat\u011b, tak ji mus\u00edte m\u00edt zarezervovanou. Chata\u0159ka je ale moc mil\u00e1 a na moji ot\u00e1zku, zda je mo\u017en\u00e9 p\u0159espat uvnit\u0159, mi odpov\u00edd\u00e1, \u017ee ano, ale pouze v kuchyni na zemi. To n\u00e1m v\u016fbec nevad\u00ed, hlavn\u011b kdy\u017e budeme v teple a v suchu. Chata se nach\u00e1z\u00ed t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 v 1000 m.n.m., nen\u00ed tu tekouc\u00ed voda a such\u00fd z\u00e1chod je venku. Je to tu ale velmi \u00fatuln\u00e9. Chata je vybavena kuchy\u0148kou s va\u0159i\u010dem, jsou tu k dispozici matrace a top\u00ed se v n\u00ed plynem. I ten such\u00fd z\u00e1chod byl kr\u00e1sn\u011b \u010dist\u00fd. Uvnit\u0159 je kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 teplo, d\u00e1v\u00e1me si su\u0161it ve\u0161ker\u00e9 mokr\u00e9 v\u011bci. Uva\u0159\u00edme si vodu na ve\u010de\u0159i, i kdy\u017e je je\u0161t\u011b relativn\u011b brzy (cca 17h). Zbytek ve\u010dera odpo\u010d\u00edv\u00e1me. David usnul v okam\u017eiku, kdy dolehl na matraci, j\u00e1 je\u0161t\u011b chv\u00edli poslouchala podcast, ale netrvalo to dlouho a dala jsem si do u\u0161\u00ed \u0161punty, zakryla si o\u010di \u0161\u00e1tkem a usnula, i kdy\u017e v kuchyni je\u0161t\u011b sed\u011bli ostatn\u00ed nocle\u017en\u00edci. Dne\u0161n\u00ed den byl p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b velmi n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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U\u0161li jsme „pouh\u00fdch“ 12 km, ale s celkov\u00fdm p\u0159ev\u00fd\u0161en\u00edm 1080 m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n