{"id":2613,"date":"2021-08-05T19:51:00","date_gmt":"2021-08-05T17:51:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sykorkanacestach.cz\/?p=2613"},"modified":"2022-11-03T17:40:31","modified_gmt":"2022-11-03T16:40:31","slug":"laugavegur-a-fimmvorduhals-3-den","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sykorkanacestach.cz\/?p=2613","title":{"rendered":"Laugavegur a Fimmv\u00f6r\u00f0uh\u00e1ls 3. den"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Bud\u00edme se do kr\u00e1sn\u00e9ho r\u00e1na. Vyu\u017eijeme toho, \u017ee v kempu je velk\u00fd stan s lavicemi a stoly, kde si m\u016f\u017eeme uva\u0159it j\u00eddlo, a nefouk\u00e1 na n\u00e1s. Po sn\u00eddani v\u0161echno zabal\u00edme, naposledy se pokoch\u00e1me n\u00e1dhern\u00fdmi v\u00fdhledy a vyraz\u00edme na nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed islandsk\u00fd trek a to Laugavegur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Proch\u00e1z\u00edme vrbov\u00fdm lesem. Z po\u010d\u00e1tku trochu stoup\u00e1me a pak op\u011bt kles\u00e1me dol\u016f k \u0159ece, kterou mus\u00edme p\u0159ebrodit. Je to na\u0161e prvn\u00ed brod\u011bn\u00ed na Islandu. U \u0159eky potk\u00e1v\u00e1me francouzsk\u00fd p\u00e1r, kter\u00fd se tak\u00e9 chyst\u00e1 na brod\u011bn\u00ed. Mu\u017ei to jde velmi dob\u0159e, ale \u017eena se dost boj\u00ed, tak se pro ni mu\u017e vrac\u00ed a bere j\u00ed batoh a pom\u00e1h\u00e1 ji se stabilitou. Nen\u00ed to nijak t\u011b\u017ek\u00fd brod. Je \u0161irok\u00fd cca 4-5 metr\u016f, ale uprost\u0159ed je proud docela siln\u00fd a \u010dlov\u011bk se mus\u00ed skute\u010dn\u011b zap\u0159\u00edt. Pro p\u0159ebrod\u011bn\u00ed rychle usu\u0161\u00edm nohy a obl\u00e9knu si kalhoty a boty, abychom mohli zase pokra\u010dovat. Cesta se vln\u00ed a chv\u00edli \u0161lapeme do kopce a pak zase kles\u00e1me. M\u00e1me \u00fachvatn\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy na ledovce i hory. Na jedn\u00e9 louce se zastavujeme, d\u00e1v\u00e1me si ob\u011bd a koch\u00e1me se t\u011bmi neskute\u010dn\u00fdmi scen\u00e9riemi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Op\u011bt kles\u00e1me k dal\u0161\u00ed \u0159ece, p\u0159es kterou je u\u017e na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed most. Cesta d\u00e1le vede po naprost\u00e9 rovin\u011b, kde n\u00e1m to ale st\u011b\u017euje sope\u010dn\u00fd p\u00edsek, po kter\u00e9m se nejde \u00fapln\u011b nejsnadn\u011bji. Slun\u00ed\u010dko sv\u00edt\u00ed a my si to u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me, po t\u011bch dvou dnech, kdy jsme 1000 metr\u016f nestoupali a op\u011bt sklesali. Potk\u00e1v\u00e1me pom\u011brn\u011b dost lid\u00ed, proto\u017ee jsme zhruba v p\u016flce dne\u0161n\u00ed etapy a tak potk\u00e1v\u00e1me hikery, kte\u0159\u00ed vyrazili z chaty Emstrur, kter\u00e1 je na\u0161\u00edm dne\u0161n\u00edm c\u00edlem. Cesta se za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 pomalu zase vlnit a mi chvilku \u0161lapeme do kopce a pak zase z kopce.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mezi lidmi, kte\u0159\u00ed jsou vproti sm\u011bru, si najednou v\u0161\u00edm\u00e1m na\u0161eho zn\u00e1m\u00e9ho Holan\u010fana. Zastavujeme se s n\u00edm a pt\u00e1me se, pro\u010d se vrac\u00ed, \u0158\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee to v\u010dera p\u0159e\u0161vihl, kdy\u017e spojit dv\u011b etapy do jedn\u00e9 a u\u0161el zhruba 30 km. Za\u010dalo ho velmi bolet koleno a nav\u00edc se i dost \u0161patn\u011b vyspal, proto\u017ee na chatu dorazil pozd\u011b a u\u017e pro n\u011bj nezbyl rovn\u00fd pl\u00e1cek pro stan. Koleno ho bol\u00ed natolik, \u017ee se rozhodl to oto\u010dit a v cest\u011b nepokra\u010dovat. Je to smutn\u00e9, ale i to ob\u010das k trekov\u00e1n\u00ed pat\u0159\u00ed. Rozlou\u010d\u00edme se a pop\u0159ejeme mu \u0161\u0165astnou cestu a a\u0165 je mu brzy l\u00e9pe. Po p\u00e1r kilometrech potk\u00e1v\u00e1me dal\u0161\u00ed skupinku lid\u00ed v protism\u011bru a mezi nimi i dva \u010cechy, kter\u00e9 si pamatuji z letadla a dokonce i z kempu v Reykjav\u00edku. D\u00e1me se s nimi do \u0159e\u010di. I oni pr\u00fd spali v Emstruru z kopce, proto\u017ee tak\u00e9 p\u0159i\u0161li pozd\u011b a u\u017e na n\u011b nezbyl rovn\u00fd pl\u00e1cek. Tohle by se n\u00e1m st\u00e1t nem\u011blo, vyr\u00e1\u017eeli jsme brzy a cca v 15h u\u017e bychom m\u011bli b\u00fdt u chaty.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cesta n\u00e1s vyhoupne na n\u00e1dhernou plo\u0161inu, z kter\u00e9 je na jedn\u00e9 stran\u011b kr\u00e1sn\u00fd pohled do ka\u0148onu, a na druh\u00e9 stran\u011b neskute\u010dn\u00fd v\u00fdhled na ledovec M\u00fdrdalsj\u00f6kull. Chv\u00edli blbneme s fotkami, d\u00e1v\u00e1me sva\u010dinku a pak pokra\u010dujeme svi\u017en\u011b d\u00e1l. Za n\u00e1mi se to za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 dost mra\u010dit a n\u00e1m je\u0161t\u011b kousek cesty zb\u00fdv\u00e1. P\u0159ekra\u010dujeme \u0159eku Fremri-Emstru\u00e1, kter\u00e1 bud\u00ed obrovsk\u00fd respekt. Je to opravdu divok\u00e1 ledovcov\u00e1 \u0159eka s obrovsk\u00fdm pr\u016ftokem. Hu\u010d\u00ed to tu tak, \u017ee nen\u00ed sly\u0161et vlastn\u00edho slova. Celou atmosf\u00e9ru umoc\u0148uje \u010d\u00edm d\u00e1l t\u00edm v\u00edc se mra\u010d\u00edc\u00ed obloha s bl\u00ed\u017e\u00edc\u00edm se de\u0161t\u011bm. P\u0159eb\u011bhneme most a za\u010dneme stoupat do nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edho krp\u00e1lu (200 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metr\u016f na 1 km) dne\u0161n\u00edho dne. Stoup\u00e1n\u00ed je to v\u00fd\u017eivn\u00e9 a je\u0161t\u011b k tomu se jde v sope\u010dn\u00e9m p\u00edsku, v kter\u00e9m se jde opravdu \u0161patn\u011b. Nav\u00edc za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 pr\u0161et \ud83d\ude41 Kdy\u017e vyfun\u00edm kopec, tak u\u017e n\u00e1m chyb\u00ed jen zhruba kilometr k chat\u011b. D\u00e9\u0161\u0165 se docela rozj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed, a a\u010d se sna\u017e\u00edme dost sp\u011bchat, tak celkem zmokneme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Na chatu p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme brzy a rovn\u00fdch pl\u00e1ck\u016f je tu dost. St\u00e1le je\u0161t\u011b pr\u0161\u00ed a cel\u00e9 podlo\u017e\u00ed je zde ze sope\u010dn\u00e9ho p\u00edsku a do toho se \u00fapln\u011b n\u00e1\u0161 tarp nestav\u00ed nejl\u00e9pe. Je tu na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed spousta kamen\u016f a David se hned pust\u00ed do stav\u011bn\u00ed tarpu. J\u00e1 jdu k chata\u0159i zaplatit za nocleh. Bohu\u017eel jim ale nefunguje platbn\u00ed termin\u00e1l a my hotovost nem\u00e1me. Jsme tedy po\u017e\u00e1d\u00e1ni, a\u0165 zaplat\u00edme z\u00edtra na dal\u0161\u00ed chat\u011b. Mezit\u00edm, co David stav\u00ed stan, tak j\u00e1 jsem zalezla do „spole\u010densk\u00e9 m\u00edstnosti“, rozum\u011bj velk\u00fd party stan se stoly a lavicemi, a va\u0159\u00edm si brzkou ve\u010de\u0159i, proto\u017ee se do m\u011b d\u00e1v\u00e1 dost zima, jak jsem zmokla. Zhruba po hodin\u011b se d\u00e9\u0161\u0165 uklid\u0148uje a vyl\u00e9z\u00e1 op\u011bt slun\u00ed\u010dko a tak si d\u00e1v\u00e1m ven su\u0161it mokr\u00e9 v\u011bci. David si tak\u00e9 v\u0161imne chata\u0159e, kter\u00fd vyb\u011bhl p\u0159ed chatu bez tri\u010dka a s \u010dinkami, pustil si p\u00edsni\u010dku od Enyi a za\u010dal posilovat \ud83d\ude00 No proti gustu \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd di\u0161put\u00e1t. Potk\u00e1v\u00e1me tu tak\u00e9 velmi milou skupinku \u010cech\u016f z Ostravska, kte\u0159\u00ed jdou stejn\u00fd sm\u011brem jako my. Jsou to dv\u011b hol\u010diny a jeden mu\u017e, v\u0161ichni okolo 40 let. Kdy\u017e se domlouvaj\u00ed, co budou va\u0159it k ve\u010de\u0159i, tak jedna z nich navrhne, zda by si nedali brka\u0161i. V tom je ale zastavena vedouc\u00edm v\u00fdpravy, \u017ee brka\u0161i si musej\u00ed nechat a\u017e na konec, \u017ee je to to nejlep\u0161\u00ed co maj\u00ed \ud83d\ude00 Nakonec si op\u00e9kaj\u00ed vyso\u010dinu, a p\u0159id\u00e1vaj\u00ed k tomu kuskus. Pov\u00edd\u00e1me si s nimi opravdu dlouho. Ve\u010der se v\u0161ak rozlou\u010d\u00edme a jdeme do spac\u00e1k\u016f. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dneska jsme u\u0161li 15 km s celkov\u00fdm p\u0159ev\u00fd\u0161en\u00edm 1250 m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n